The Spring/Summer 2018 season marked a pivotal moment in Burberry's history. Riccardo Tisci, the celebrated Italian designer known for his dramatic silhouettes and darkly romantic aesthetic at Givenchy, took the helm, succeeding Christopher Bailey. His debut collection, unveiled during London Fashion Week, was highly anticipated, promising a fresh perspective on the iconic British brand. This article delves into the key elements of the Burberry SS 2018 runway show, analyzing its standout dresses, the overall collection, individual looks, its impact on Burberry's runway presence at London Fashion Week (LFW), and the lasting legacy of this transitional collection.
Burberry Runway Dresses: A Fusion of Heritage and Modernity
Tisci’s SS 2018 collection for Burberry wasn't a radical departure, but rather a considered evolution. He respected the brand’s heritage while simultaneously injecting his signature style. The runway dresses were a compelling blend of these two forces. Gone were the overtly whimsical, overtly romantic styles of Bailey's era; in their place were sleek, sophisticated gowns that exuded a powerful femininity.
Several key themes emerged in the dresses. One was a focus on strong shoulders and structured silhouettes. Many dresses featured sharp, defined shoulders, creating a powerful, almost architectural quality. This contrasted with the flowing, often sheer fabrics used, creating a tension between rigidity and fluidity. The sheer fabrics, often in delicate pastels or bold, graphic prints, added a layer of ethereal beauty, softening the strong structural elements. This juxtaposition was a key element of Tisci’s approach – a constant interplay between contrasting elements.
Another notable feature was the use of lace and embroidery. These delicate details were often incorporated into the structured silhouettes, adding a touch of romance and intricacy. The lace wasn't overly fussy; instead, it was used strategically to enhance the overall design, adding texture and depth without overwhelming the clean lines. The embroidery, often featuring Burberry’s iconic check pattern in a reimagined form, served as a subtle nod to the brand's heritage.
The color palette for the dresses was surprisingly diverse. While Tisci is known for his preference for darker hues, the SS 2018 collection featured a range of colors, from soft pastels like blush pink and lavender to vibrant jewel tones like emerald green and sapphire blue. These colors were often used in unexpected combinations, creating visually striking effects. For example, a blush pink dress might feature emerald green embroidery, or a sapphire blue gown might be paired with a contrasting pastel pink belt.
Burberry Runway Collection: A New Era Begins
The Burberry SS 2018 runway collection as a whole represented a significant shift in the brand's aesthetic. It was a departure from the overtly romantic and sometimes whimsical collections of the Bailey era, and it marked the start of a new, more mature and sophisticated direction under Tisci's leadership.
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